Walls and Ceilings
- Wash off excessive grease, dirt, nicotine, etc. Rub down oil based paint.
- Fill with standard fillers-small holes, cracks, chips, etc. (in some cases it may be necessary to take further steps to prevent cracks caused by movement from reappearing.)
- Finally rubbing down fillers until a smoothest possible finish is achieved. (Sometimes areas that have been filled may still show through due to the variation in surface texture, it may be advisable to line walls where a lot of filling has taken place, e.g. when cables have been chased into the wall.)
- Treat all previously damp surfaces, which are evident by either area of staining or mould growing. Damp surfaces must be allowed to fully dry out and cannot always be guaranteed not to reappear.
- For new surfaces a mist coat or sealing coat must be applied. Apply enough coats to cover fully and evenly (a usual minimum of 2 coats diluted to manufacturer’s specifications, unless otherwise requested,
- Allowing between 4 and 24 hours between applications.
- The medium application is normally by way of lamb’s wool or synthetic rollers, or by brush unless more specialist paint methods are being utilised
- It is normally advised that the walls be lined before being papered. This eliminates wall colours that may show through, while at the same time softening any wall surface faults and allows a uniform surface on which to paste the covering
- Some papers can be hung on smooth unlined surfaces, but this is generally a risk.
- Finishing can be expected to be done so that edges are cut straight, corners do not bulge or shrink, edges are butted or spliced tightly together without significant gaps or overlaps, patterns match, cuttings around switches etc., are neat, there are no bubbles or tears and joints show only the smallest traces of paste, depending on the type of paper.
- You can expect to be informed of the limitations of the above if papers or surfaces are not standard or are imperfect.
- Undulating surfaces and un-square walls cause some limitations in joining and pattern match.
- When purchasing the paper, it is of great importance to check that all the rolls are from the same batch as variations in shade can occur between different batches.
- It may be necessary to remove radiators; past experience has shown us that this could result in the need to replace worn or faulty valves. You will be informed of any such event.
Woodwork and Metalwork
- Wash down excessive greasy or dirty surfaces (mostly external)
- Fill cracks and holes with standard fillers, flexible fillers to be used around door frames and other areas subject to movement (only two-part epoxy wood-filler to be used externally)
- Scrape off loose and flaky paint back to a firm edge, and firm off edges. Burn off excessive flaking area.
- Rub down all surfaces to provide a key and to smooth out fillers.
- Knot and prime bare wood, using Dulux weather shield primer/ preservative for exterior wood.
- Wire brush bare metal, rust cure and prime.
- All windows will be left in the same working order as found, with the glass cleaned of any paint splashes. Any windows that are not working correctly will be reported to you.
- To new primed wood – apply 2 undercoats (or 1 undercoat and 1 eggshell coat), Rubbing down between coats, and 1 finishing coat.
- To previously surfaces painted already -apply 1 undercoat and 1 finishing coat (more coats if specified), 12-24 hours between coats.
- Paint is applied so as to cut in straight edges (lapping 4mm onto the glass to create a seal), no drips, runs, pools or fat edges and neat minimal brush marks.
- Jet wash or clean down any dirty areas.
- Scrape back loose and flaky paint to a firm edge.
- Fill all holes and cracks with an exterior grade cement based filler, cornice or other decorative mouldings can be reformed but not as a part of normal preparations. Areas of damage that need more than normal filling that may not have been apparent before commencing work will be brought to your attention as soon as possible.
- Prime all bare areas of masonry with an Alkali-resisting primer.
It is standard for all furniture, carpets, plants etc., to be covered so as not to collect dust or paint and the general are should be tidy and clean after each day’s work, and completely cleaned up at the end of the job. All fixtures and fittings are either removed or masked before painting.
Variations and Limitations
- Limitations normally apply to uneven wall surfaces, unknown dampness and obvious deterioration of wood or plaster.
- Where walls/ceilings are to be stripped we allow for some amount of remedial plastering
- Windows already stuck tight or not operating fully that may require full easing or repairs will always be an extra, but will be professionally dealt with.
- You will be advised of which limitations if any apply to you.
N.B: Please feel free discuss any of the above information that is not clear to you with the site manager/ supervisor.